We made arrangements with the hotel owner in Agra to have one of his drivers take us from Delhi to Agra where we stayed for two days, with a stop at Fatehpur Sikri, then on to Jaipur. Delhi, Agra and Jaipur make up what is known as the Golden Triangle.
The very polite driver picked us up in a new, spacious SUV that contained a large cooler with water for the trip. The private car gave us an opportunity to see the countryside and learn from our driver who was encyclopedic in his knowledge of India. We left Delhi around 8 AM and the three and a half hour ride would get us into Agra by 11:30 AM, so we could have the afternoon to visit the Taj Mahal and the Agra Fort.
The trip from Delhi to Agra was smooth without much traffic and we were impressed with the highway and well-paved roads. There was not much to see along the way, but took note of several massive apartment buildings being constructed in remote places along the highway. We were told they were being built to encourage the middle-class city dwellers in Delhi to move out to the suburbs to reduce the congestion and housing shortage.
Because of the Taj Mahal, Agra is almost always on the list of places to visit for travelers to India, and we were no exception. The city of Agra is located along the banks of the Yamuna River. It was the capital of the Mughal emperors from 1526 to 1658 and is a major tourist destination, not only because of the Taj Mahal and Agra Fort, but also Fatehpur Sikri, a UNESCO World Heritage site.
As we drove into Agra, we couldn’t help but notice that this was, seemingly, a rough-looking, run-down town. We were not expecting this at all and it reminded us of a trip we took to Washington, DC when our son was very young to see the White House back in the early 1980s. We were so disappointed as we drove through run-down neighborhoods to get to the White House and other sites. Well, it was the same feeling we had about Agra and wondered why governments don’t invest in cities that house their grandest, iconic monuments.
We asked the driver to stop so we could stroll around and take some photos, but he strongly suggested not doing so, for our own safety. It was quite disappointing because we have been in some rough parts of the world and didn’t fear for our safety, but heeded his advice.
Hotel: Our choice of hotel in Agra was a small, immaculately kept boutique hotel. It was called the Agra Luxury Homestay when we were there, but has since changed its name to The Serene. We did a lot of research on hotels before choosing this one and it all had to do with the comments posted in TripAdvisor: homey; warm and friendly; tasty, home-made food; and great attention to your every need. After Delhi, we wanted a place like this and we weren’t disappointed at all!
The reviews we read in TripAdvisor about the food at the hotel were absolutely true – the food was delicious! It’s mostly organic and vegetarian with all the items on the menu coming from the owner’s family farm, including fresh buffalo milk. The staff was friendly, warm and attentive to your every need. The kitchen was immaculately kept and the chef lets you sample as he cooks. From what we have seen of the town, we were relieved to find the hotel was located in a nice, safe, clean, quiet neighborhood. We are sure there are other parts of Agra that are nice; it’s probably the entry into town that is not.
The Taj Mahal: We were provided lunch at the hotel before leaving for our visit to the Taj Mahal – sandwiches, samosas, fruit, tea and fresh juices. The owner also invited a tour guide to the hotel to meet us so he could guide us through the Taj Mahal and the Agra Fort. Although you can buy tickets and wander through these sites on your own, we suggest hiring a guide. Seeing the Taj up close and having a good guide to explain what went into its design and construction will elevate the sense of awe you’ll have of this magnificent structure. You can only be astounded by the level of craftsmanship and amazed at the dedication its artisans and workers must have had while working to complete this structure. The building of the Taj Mahal “employed” thousands of people over the course of many, many years. So, there was probably very low unemployment at that time. “Employed” is an important word because unlike many of the world’s greatest structures, the Taj Mahal was built by paid workers and not slave labor.
You must take a horse-carriage ride from the Taj Mahal to the Agra Fort. It takes about 10-15 minutes and seems dangerous dashing along one of Agra’s busiest thoroughfares, weaving in and out of traffic, but what fun!
Agra Fort: Though Agra is largely famous the world over as the city of Taj Mahal, Agra Fort is another feature of the city that attracts lots of tourists. The fort is enormous and was not really a fort, but a walled city covering nearly 95 acres. The fort has a long history, having passed through the hands of many rulers over centuries. Because of the power and wealth of these rulers and the importance of the Agra Fort, its architecture is stunning. From some vantage points within the fort, you can see the Taj Mahal in the distance, a little less than two miles away. Monkeys rule at the Agra Fort so have your camera ready at all times!
After spending two days in Agra, we left for Jaipur with a stop at Fatehpur Sikri. The ride from Agra to Fatehpur Sikri is about an hour where we spent an hour and a half exploring the site. The ride from this site to Jaipur is approximately 3 hours.
Fatehpur Sikri: This heritage site is another of India’s architectural treasures that perfectly blends the influences of Mughal and Persian styles. It was once the capital city of the Mughal Empire under the emperor Akbar. One of the most interesting facts about Fatehpur Sikri is that it was abandoned within a year after its completion. Apparently, the spring that fed the lake which supplied the water to the city, dried up. What a waste of 15 years work! The good news is that it’s mostly intact and still there to see. The palaces, gardens and other buildings within the city are works of art. The main gateway, or Buland Darwaza, is an awesome sight rising nearly 180 feet. You could spend an entire day at Fatehpur Sikri, but if your time is limited, we suggest you make a point to see the beautiful white marble tomb of the Sufi saint, Slim Chishti, Itmad-ud-Daulah, the Jama Masjid and the Jehangir Palace.
If you intend to visit the Golden Triangle, we recommend hiring a car for the trip. If you do make arrangements to lodge at The Serene, you should ask about arranging Delhi-Agra-Jaipur transportation with the owner of this hotel. The service provided is excellent and reasonably priced.
It was time to hit the road again and continue on our journey to Jaipur, the Pink City, our last stop in the Golden Triangle.
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Photo of the The Serene (formerly the Agra Luxury Homestay when we were there).
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To view the Taj Mahal and Gardens, click on this link – Taj Mahal
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To view the Agra Fort, click on this link – Agra Fort Video
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To view Fatehpur Sikri, click on this link – Fatehpuh Sikri
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With some devices, you may have to wait for the video to load before you hit play.
To get a taste of our entry into Agra, view the video:
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